
The Coffee Bean on Ulitsa Tverskaya, one of Moscow’s favourite cafés.
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On Saturday afternoon, the day of the so-called Dissenters’ March, I was drinking a double espresso at the elegant Coffee Bean on Ulitsa Tverskaya and enjoying a conversation with a 19-year-old student from Moscow State University. Yes, life is tough in the trenches. Armenian by birth, Karina and her family fled Baku in 1998, one day before war broke out between Armenia and Azerbaijan. Today, Karina would never be confused as a former refugee. Indeed, she’s a Russian success story. In addition to her mother tongue, she speaks fluent English and German, and she’s now studying Japanese as well; after graduation, she plans to attend university abroad. She’s well-read and well-travelled, thinks the television programme Sex and the City is “total rubbish”, and considers Moscow “the most exciting city in the world”. Not bad for such a “repressed” place. Our conversation was punctuated by a steady stream of police officers who went in and out of the coffee shop with large thermoses, taking advantage of the French Roast and biscuits. It was almost comical how the well-dressed lunchtime crowd barely noticed the camouflaged officers. It was very understandable why the OMON was looking for some caffeine stimulation. Nothing was happening on the streets. Well, nothing that deserves front-page hysterics, that’s for sure. Yes, a former chess champ found himself trapped in checkmate in the long shadow of King Pushkin, and duly awarded a 1,000 rouble (38 USD 28 Euros 22 UK Pounds) slap on the wrist for his ill-conceived play. There are jaywalkers in Moscow who receive higher fines for their foolhardiness. Nobody denied Mr Kasparov the right to a protest. Actually, he was granted a very respectable soap box right on Turgenevskaya Square, one of the most upscale and populated areas of the city. Any leader of a legitimate political organisation (which this motley crew of communists, anarchists, and liberals of various shades isn’t, by the way) would’ve jumped at the chance for such a visible venue. However, there was a slight problem with this group accepting a “handout” from the Russian government. Playing by the “régime’s” rules would fail to trigger a slobbering Pavlov-reaction in the Western press. Since this group of malcontents fails to generate any real political support, much less sympathy, on the basis of their agenda, their popularity ranks somewhere between pookh and bad vodka, they must rely on the free advertising of the Western media. Thus, Americans have every right to comment on this oligarch-paid political stunt, because it interferes with what could be considered truly newsworthy material at home. Russia’s alien “others” are simply grasping for the huge fig leaf of the western media to hide their unpopularity at home.
Okay, back to the Coffee Bean; we hear the “news” (as if the ending of this slick PR campaign was not predictable from the start) about a disturbance near Pushkin Square, just up the street. Karina’s mother delivered us the news after hearing about it over the car radio. “Yes, Mom, I’m fine”, Karina answered with a hint of annoyance. “There’s always somebody protesting about something”. Now, I ask… Where is the “authoritarianism” that so many western-leaning media are babbling about? Yes, cappuccino a democracy doesn’t make, I agree, but, what we’re talking about here is a matter of double standards and pure media bias. After all, the real story on Russia isn’t to be found in The Wall Street Journal editorial section, for example, a beehive of neocon sabre-rattling, but, on the sidewalks of Moscow where liberalism really reigns. Here, in one coffee shop out of about 1,000 in the capital, a young student is sitting across from me who speaks four languages, will soon study abroad, has the latest fashions, extensive travels, and a mobile phone, which her mother promptly called after hearing a disturbing news report over the car radio. This is very far from the days of Chernobyl, when the Soviet authorities withheld vital news reports about a truly significant event. Today, across Russia, people can choose from over 38,000 newspaper publications (some free-of-charge, foreign, and blatantly government-unfriendly) where every view under the sun is given free reign. In addition to radio (yes, the radio exists in Russia!), there’s privately-owned television too. However, given the monopolistic quality of the western media, and its very real power to control events (Read: Iraq), this media should not be overstated until it is democratic everywhere.
If Russia is really “authoritarian” for citing individuals who attempted to assemble, illegally, on Pushkinskaya, then, every nation east and west of Moscow is guilty of the same charges. It’s only necessary to consider summit meetings between members of the World Trade Organisation, for example. During these meetings, which determine in no small degree the rules of the global economy, attendees hunker down in one part of town, protesters in another. Meanwhile, the United States, the nation that every liberal turns to for moral (financial?) support, has its own odd rules of assembly that many argue breach the Constitution. “Orwellian ‘free speech zones’”, argued Ronald Bailey in Reason Magazine, “are typically far away from the venue where the visiting president is appearing, so that he can enjoy a Potyomkin Village experience in which he sees only an adoring populace through his limousine window. Protesters can peaceably assemble, just out of the President’s sight and earshot…(for a nice photo of “free speech” at the 2004 Democratic Convention, check “free-speech-zone” on Wikipedia; it’s good for a chuckle). Lastly, there’s the ugly issue of outside forces, many of whom still feel the sting of losing their influence on the Kremlin, pumping hard cash into Russia, thereby artificially inflating a very farcical opposition.
20 April 2007
Robert Bridge
An American in Moscow
Moscow News
http://www.mnweekly.ru/local/20070420/55236295.html
Editor’s Note:
A friend of mine asked me if there were good unbiased reports from contemporary Russia by English or American journalists. I said, sure, there’s Peter Lavelle at Russia Today and Robert Bridge at the Moscow News. Both are excellent American journalists who don’t spew the CNN line. They both deserve to better known.